‘Return to elegance’; Alice Temperley’s new ready to wear S/S 2013 collection deserved such a name. The venue, Grand Connaught Rooms, was fit to welcome such a show that dazzled its audience. Pixie Lott, Poppy Delevigne, Laura Bailey and Jacquetta Wheeler, to name a few, were all present to witness the magical show that was about to unfold.
The collection takes inspiration from the late 1950’s couture and from the 1960’s French Riviera to produce ultra feminine silhouettes. The collection puts a special emphasis on the waist, with shapes that flatter the body, and belted dresses, jumpsuits, or combination of tight tops with flared skirts. Everything comes together to produce feminine and elegant looks, from the classic shapes inspired by the late 1950’s, to the fine use of silk, chiffon, tulle and satin topped with ribbons, suede, lace appliqué, and cotton sateen, to the peony pattern woven with jacquard loom or with stitched embroidery. To finalise the looks, the accessories have been chosen to stay subtle while still adding an extra dimension of elegance, with lace gloves, skinny suede belts with crystal insect embroidery, vintage sunglasses, and straw hats. The colour palette varies from white and ivory, powder and china blue, black, navy and red.
The collection could be divided into two parts, the first being the more feminine looks, with light blues and white, peony pattern embroidery and jacquard, inspired by late 1950’s couture, resulting in effortless fitted garments. The second half is one that recalls the French Riviera of the 1960’s, with striped jumpsuits and dresses, mixed in navy, red, ivory and black colours, and completed with straw hats and sunglasses to produce elegant beachwear. The ‘Croisette’ mood is also carried at the end with black lattice ribbon garments that recall the French holiday spots by the sea.
As a whole, the collection is a return to the timeless shapes and colours, but it also carries Eastern influences. The patterns are reminiscent of Islamic designs, some directly extracted from Moorish style. The influences are also Asian, in the straw hats and in the ink coloured coat combined with tailored trousers. As a result, the collection oscillates perfectly between elegant and feminine cocktail party dresses or gowns, and the chic of the French Riviera with jumpsuits and striped sleeveless jersey dresses. The collection turns to timeless pieces while still creating a fresh and modern mood. It is with no surprise that we learn at the end of the show that it is Alice’s ‘favourite ever collection.’
Photos by Margaux Donnellier
19 September 2012 Leave a Comment