In her latest project, footwear designer, Cat Potter, explores shapes, materials and technology to create a stunning and innovative collection. Inspired by line and function, she challenges the conventional silhouettes and forms, as she unveils a cohesive yet provocative aesthetic proposition.

-What’s your background?

I was born in a small mountain village in Switzerland. We moved around a lot due to my parents’ work. My early school years were spent in Germany and holidays were spent in Brittany and in Sweden with my mother’s family. When I was 9 years old we moved to England, where I have lived ever since.

I went to Central Saint Martins to study Curation for my BA (hons) degree. After that I completed a 1-year Diploma in Footwear at Cordwainer’s College, which led on to the MA in Fashion Footwear at London College of Fashion.

-What is the concept behind the Pernilla collection?

During my MA studies, during which I started using traditional methods of design and construction, I became very interested in the potential to use alternative materials and technologies in the construction, not just decoration, of shoes. I began this work using a material that was readily available and that had traditional roots in the fabrication of footwear. As I considered and researched how to fabricate the shoes, I collaborated with University College London, in using 3-axis CNC milling machines.

Using wood in conjunction with milling machines has allowed me to explore shape without being restricted by traditional shoe components like insole boards, shanks or toe and heel puffs. Using a scanned 3D model of a last has allowed me to trace the silhouette form of the foot on the inside, diffusing its profile on the outside.

-What was the inspiration?

My collections have been based on historical objects and cultures. They are also strongly influenced by architecture, furniture design and organic forms and structures.

The artist Ricky Swallow was the starting point for my final collection. He very successfully manipulates wood into delicate forms. The viewers perception of a material is changed through the skilful carving of English lime wood. The notion of transforming a strong and durable material like wood into different forms is something that fascinates me.

Transformation is a notion that has always interested me, using dress and form as a way of manipulating identity: an additive process, which creates an illusion and embellishes the wearer.

-Which are your favourite materials to work with?

I very much enjoy working with natural materials, be it leather or wood. Using cadcam technology, it is immediately assumed that rapid prototyping would be used to print the designs out of nylon. I wanted to challenge that notion by marrying technology with a natural material like wood.

Using wood poses a huge challenge, as it is a material with a unique charisma. It was once living, moving and growing with the seasons and as such its organic origins are clear in its appearance and texture that contrasts starkly with the lines created through CNC milling.

- What role does technology have in your work?

Technology has only recently influenced my work. Due to my interest in art and architecture my designs rely heavily on volume and silhouette that could not be achieved through traditional footwear construction. I therefore had to use innovative and cross-disciplinary technology to create unusual forms.

- What are your upcoming projects?

I am in the process of designing a capsule collection based on the techniques used in my Pernilla collection, using different woods and veneers.

Photography: Alejandro Cavallo